I've giggled a few times at the blurb introducing the recipe for a basic yellow cake in my Gourmet cookbook. It begins, "One month, when we ran a story by the food historian Laura Shapiro about the pernicious effects of boxed cake mixes on the American home baker, we decided to provide an object lesson on the virtues of baking from scratch." I love this sentence so much. First, "pernicious" -- such a strong word. I looked it up to confirm just how powerful it is; m-w.com defines it as "highly injurious or destructive: deadly." Deadly! Well, I agree, I suppose; the existence of box mixes convinces people that baking a cake from scratch is much trickier and time-consuming than it actually is, so that mixes are -- OK, fine, Gourmet -- killing potential scratch bakers. I also love that it conjures an image of the American home baker as an endangered species threatened by Betty and Duncan. Dramatic, but, again, I agree there's been damage. As a pancake fanatic, I probably feel even more strongly about Bisquick's (if I were a Gourmet editor I'd insert the word "nefarious" here) power over the would-be pancake maker. Finally, I love Gourmet's generosity and public service mindedness in providing an "object lesson" on the "virtues" of scratch baking. Please welcome, Rev. Gourmet of the Fundamentalist Church of Baking!
I agree with the Reverend on core tenets, but find her elitist and unwelcoming. I much prefer scratch baking myself (but let me be clear: I eat any baked good served to me, whether from scratch, a mix, or a store, with gusto), and I think not missing a lot of boxes and mixes eased our transition to living here somewhat, because I haven't had to modify my cooking much.
Of course the advantage of those cake mixes is that they're designed not to fail. Even when the instructions are followed imprecisely, they turn out OK. Unlike, say, this:
That was my first attempt at a treat for Lily to take to school on her birthday. A crust formed on the cake; its doneness was difficult to determine; I couldn't send a raw cake to school; I had a hard time testing it; suddenly, it looked like that.
Thanks to a very kind kitchen assistant who cleaned as I started anew, Lily ended up taking a plate of some pretty cute butterfly cookies, rather than a heart-shaped cake with a hole in its center, to share with her classmates. But ever since I've had this song in my head: yeah, this one.
A friend sent me a link to Cake Wrecks this week (thanks, Megan!), and I wanted to share my own, less funny, wreck. (This site is hilarious -- my favorites so far: Advice to the new couple, and Curious George.)


















